What it is like to live in Rome

When I told people that I wanted to live in Italy, some thought that I was dreaming of vacations and it would pass. Others asked if I had a new Italian boyfriend or job offer. My global employer clearly stated that if I wanted to be relocated, I needed a convincing reason such as getting married there. None of this was the case. Apparently, chasing my own happiness and falling in love with the place did not sound like a serious reason to the world.

I have been living in Rome for almost three years. I did not look to move to Rome in particular. I liked Italian culture and was open to opportunities in various cities. Rome just happened.

Italians always say that to visit and to live in Italy are two different things. They are right. I prefer to live here versus making random trips. All the arguments about the collapsing economy and low salaries are relevant, but not the critical aspect of my happiness.

Here are the main reasons why I love living in Rome and what I find challenging here.

 

10 THINGS I LOVE ABOUT LIVING IN ROME

1.Sunny, warm weather

It is perfect. Maybe a bit rainy in March and too hot in July — August, but overall, excellent. Summer heat (around 40°C) is more of a concern for sensitive tourists, because during the day I work in an air-conditioned office and don’t feel it. In March it rains for a few hours per day, and then the sun pops out again.

One thing which I have learnt in Rome – at weekends instead of a long sleep until late morning,  it makes much more sense to wake up early and take a nap at midday. The siesta is a smart tradition in hot climate zones. Early morning and late afternoon in Rome are the nicest times of the day, don’t miss them!

2.Beauty

For me, Rome (and Venice) are the most beautiful cities in the world. If nothing else, those narrow old streets with boutique shops on the ground floor, colourful flowers tumbling down from the balconies, and another Michelangelo sculpture waving from a distance, inspire me every day.

Just yesterday, people were chilling out leaning against the ancient statues, and nobody bothered if a dog drank from a fountain. Adriano has shown me videos on YouTube, of how all the football fans jumped into the Trevi fountain when their team became the World champions. Rules are much more strict today (don’t ever jump into the Trevi fountain), but there is still something extraordinary in the atmosphere of daily life lived among the most precious historical monuments.

Adriano’s grandmother, who grew up and lived for a long time just in front of the Coliseum, tells me that when she was a young girl, the Fori Imperiali area behind the Coliseum (today you need a ticket to get in) was not only open, but kids played hide-and-seek there, and cows and sheep wandered freely around the ancient columns.

As people say, it is like living in an open-air museum. After three years I am still overwhelmed by it.

3.People

I love Romans. They are the kindest, most friendly, funny and relaxed people to live among.

I am surprised (in a very positive way) how free, expressive and emotional people allow themselves to be. One minute they fight, the next, they shake hands and go for a coffee together. People laugh and cry on the streets. Nobody harbours bad feelings for more than a few minutes. They come, and they go (with fireworks).

Sometimes service staff (in restaurants or shops) may appear rude. But I see them simply as sincere and emotionally honest. If they have a good day, they shine; if not, they don’t pretend. They do not smile just because a marketing manager has told them to do so. There are fewer masks of “I am happy and on top of the world every single moment”. Less of “Hello, love” and “Goodbye, love”.

One of the cultural differences I find in Rome, compared to many other Western countries, is that people complain a lot. Sometimes to complete strangers. Complaining in Rome is just a way to start a discussion, nobody really asks you to solve a problem, and in many cases they have zero willingness to act on it. Just show sympathy and complain together. Ha, ha!

As I have mentioned the “complaining culture”, I want to note that all the research about the happiest countries, always showing Scandinavians at the top of the chart and Italy somewhere at the bottom, in my opinion, has a lot to do with the “don’t ever complain, don’t bother anyone and keep your problems to yourself” attitude in the North and the “complaining out loud” culture in the South.

In general, I find Romans the most relaxed and happy people.

However, my happiness among Romans is limited to after-work hours. Except for bars and restaurants, where people work very hard and responsibly, I struggle a lot to understand how to make things done in Rome.

4.Food

It is the best, and it is very traditional. Always fresh and delicious. Simple and quick to prepare.

I would rate Italy above many other Western countries above all for its traditional cuisine. It is the good food, happy relaxed people and the sunshine which makes me happy daily, regardless of the economy.

For more, please read Food in Italy. Review by a foreigner.

5.Simplicity and less showing off

It seems contradictory. On the one hand, Italy is so well known for great fashion, beautiful villas and luxurious sports cars, but at the same time, I find Rome a relaxed place where people do not think it is essential to obtain every new trendy thing. I find appearance so much more important in the North of Italy. In Rome, rich and poor people drive the same little FIATs or scooters and enjoy eating in simple family-owned restaurants. Of course, there are luxury vehicles around too, but very frequently I find Romans to look simpler to what they could afford. I think that here, not by words but by actions, people still prioritise having more free time and spending vacations with family over growing bigger bank balances.

6.Family is the priority

Romans do have time for family – to meet, call, play, walk their dogs together, have lunch and dinner, and sometimes to do absolutely nothing but be together. Probably people all across the world would say that family is the most important thing. But in Italy it is at a completely different level, how much time and energy people actually dedicate to it.

I cannot forget my visit to one little shop in Fiumicino Airport. I wanted to buy some gloves and approached the only woman working in the shop. After “Hello”, her mobile phone rang, she excused herself, answered the phone and without rushing, talked for five minutes or so. Later, she said, “Sorry, I had to answer this. It was my daughter, she’s just come home from school”. So this is Rome – talking with your daughter about general things, how school was, what to eat at home and suggestions about homework – is way higher a priority than serving a customer standing in front of you!

7.Kids and pet lovers

Kindness, simplicity and tolerance are on show everywhere. Romans love kids and pets. Strangers stop to talk, to give a compliment, even a sweet or pat a dog. I do not have much experience with kids, but when I walk my dog, I lose count of how many times she receives pet biscuits from people on the street or in the shops. Maybe there is a law in Italy requiring every older person and shop owner to have some treats ready.

Dogs are allowed in shopping centres, shops and in many restaurants. However, maybe because of all the kids and dogs, restaurants in Rome can be very noisy, which, somehow, I am the only one to notice.

I find dogs much calmer in Rome. There are many leash-free parks. From puppies, they learn to play freely with all kinds of breeds. People take dogs everywhere, and so they learn to lead a happy, peaceful life with other dogs. My favourite is bookshops – I am still fascinated by the view of all the customers, together with retrievers, terriers and bulldogs, mingling around the bookshelves.

8.Connection with the rest of the world

This adds a lot to my convenience and happiness rating. With two international airports (Fiumicino, Ciampino) I can get to and from anywhere in the world. There is at least one flight per day to any place in Europe and far beyond. On top of that, there are fast trains to various  Italian cities, also ports for water transport. Connection with the rest of the world is fantastic (easier than trying to get from one side of Rome to the other). On free days, beaches, lakes and mountains to ski on are within arm’s reach.

9.Intelligent alcohol consumers

I have a clear association between wine and Italy, but zero link to alcoholism, drunken Friday nights or any other kind of alcoholic overdose. In Rome, and it probably applies to the whole country – Italians are very intelligent alcohol consumers. I have never seen a single drunk Italian in my three years in Rome. Not on Friday night, nor in the football stadium, nor at private parties. Never. Wine and cocktails such as Spritz Aperol are the most popular alcoholic drinks, but rarely do people take more than one glass per night.

Why is it one of the top 10 on my list? Because, compared to Northern and Eastern Europe, it makes a significant difference to the environment and quality of life.

10.Never boring

In Rome I feel alive. The mix of tastes, beauty, cheerful people and loads of cultural events inspires me. Rome is chaotic, but in some strange way it also makes me feel more alert. Am I the only one, who after coming to a modern, clean, punctual and by all means almost perfect city, appreciates that perfection only for a few days, and then it all starts to look utterly boring? Rome is many things, but never boring.

 

WHAT I DO NOT LIKE IN ROME

1. Job opportunities.
2. Taxes.
3. Transport (in Rome).

You could guess these, right? Indeed, while tourists do not care about it, these things make living in Italy a very challenging choice. If you manage to find a good, motivating and well-paid job in Rome, you can make a fantastic life here. However, if you want to open your own company or work as freelancer, avoid Italy as much as you can.

One of the key reasons why there are not many jobs and Italians escape their own country is the taxes. It seems that Italy has a very definite strategy of kicking every start-up or established private business the hell out of the country. To make it clearer to you, a 70% (and even higher) taxation rate is not exaggerated, is not a “somebody did not understand something” type of concept, as I myself thought initially.

Transport challenges are specific to Rome.

CONCLUSION. IS IT WORTHWHILE TO MOVE TO ROME?

Absolutely. Every place has its own challenges, so does Rome. You are not very likely to become a millionaire here (unless you were a billionaire before moving in), but otherwise, depending on your priorities, it can easily be the best place for quality of life.

To some extent I am becoming a little bit like an Italian – I can complain about many things in Rome, but as soon as my fiancé pronounces the words, “So let’s move to London”, I burst into tears. Because at the end of the day I love this city, this country, and do not want to move anywhere.

Is it easy to live in Rome? No. Is Italian gelato so good that it solves all your problems? Yes. Just kidding, but sunshine and gelato are my best therapies for all the problems in the world. I was not concerned with the whole economy of the nation, just one good job at a time. As for the rest, Italy is the best.